First Ascents 1981
One year
21 FA Peaks
On 11 Quads
* 26Apr The Supervisor'(6280+) USGS Damnation Peak
* 26Apr Wireman' (6120+) USGS Damnation Peak
* 26Apr Senior Operator' (6080+) USGS Damnation Peak
* 26Apr Machinist' (6040+) USGS Damnation Peak
* 31May Styloid Peak' (6972) USGS Ross Dam
* 31May Distal Phalanx' (7615) USGS Ross Dam
* 31May Hook of the Hamate' (7480+) USGS Ross Dam
* 3Jul Tara Peak' (6723) USGS Downey Mountain
* 11Jul Dirk Peak' (7640+) USGS McAlester Mountain
* 27Jul Devils Toothpick' (7720+) USGS Mount Spickard
* 28Jul W by NW Mox' (8280+) USGS Mount Redoubt
* 15Aug The Sacrum' (7148) USGS Eldorado Peak
* 15Aug Pancake Pinnacle'(7080+) USGS Eldorado Peak
* 23Aug S Hoot Owl' (7960+) USGS Mount Arriva
* 23Aug N Hoot Owl' (7920+) USGS Mount Arriva
* 14Sep Derci Spire' (8000+) USGS Mount Arriva
* 14Sep Obsession Spire' (7360+) USGS Mount Arriva
* 15Sep Natal Peak' (7800+) USGS Mount Arriva
* 17Sep Zebra Spire' (8000+) USGS Goode Mountain
* 17Sep V Peak' (8000+) USGS Mount Logan
* 25Oct Ezekiel' (7521) USGS Crater Mountain
The Supervisor'
The central spire right of Electric Butte. These names honor the Skagit powerhouse journeymen.
April 26, 1981
Party: John Roper and Silas Wild
Wireman'
April 2, 1981
Party: John Roper and Silas Wild
Senior Operator '
on right. Electric Butte' on left, Wireman' in center.
April 2, 1981
Party: JR and Silas Wild
Machinist '
on right. Electric (L), Wireman (C), Senior Operator (RC)
April 2, 1981
Party: JR and Silas Wild
Styloid Peak'
May 31, 1981
Party: John Roper, Charlie Janeway, Ted Hegg, Dave Stonington, Ron Aronoff, Don Avriett
of the Group Health Alpine Society (GHAS)
Styloid Peak'
May 31, 1981
Distal Phalanx' 7615+
is the central climax of the long, untouched north arete above Neve Creek.
Mantis" is the lower twin summit, just left. The map labels the eastern, left summit as 7614'
and mistakes Distal Phalanx as 7560+. Hook of the Hamate' is the sharp point right of Distal Phalanx (solo).
The flat-topped summit (Calcaneus') is on the right above the Neve Waterfall.
Map of Distal Phalanx.
May 31, 1981
Party: John Roper, Dave Stonington, Ted Hegg, and Charlie Janeway (GHAS)
Ted Hegg on a Tyrolean traverse across Thunder Creek
on the approach to Styloid Peak and The Distal Phalanx. The traverse
was set up by rapping down to the log stuck in the canyon, crawling
across, climbing the class 4 right wall, then tying off for the shuttle.
Tara Peak'
Gramps Peak' and Engles Peak' (aka Variation') to right
July 3, 1981
Party: John Roper and Gary Mellom
Dirk Peak' 7680+
Center. Stiletto Peak 7600+ (L), Big Stiletto' 7805 (R)
July 11, 1981
Party: John Roper and John Burroughs
Devils Toothpick'
from Silver Lake, right of deep V-notch. Devils Tongue" on right.
Rahms Horn'/McNaught Peak" on left.
July 21, 1981
Party: John Roper, Jim Lucke and Silas Wild
Devils Toothpick'
from outlet of Silver Lake
I first tried Devils Toothpick in 1970 with Tom and Chris, rowing across Ross Lake from Hozomeen campground, then thrashing up Silver Creek and the headwall, running out of time, after getting to the notch in the photo above, just below the rock climb of the tower. Reed Tindall, Rice, and I walked by the Toothpick in 1971 using the same Silver Creek approach and exit on our way to bigger prizes in the Chilliwacks. Finally made it to the top in 1981, coming up Ross Lake on the water taxi, and running the ridge north of Silver Creek, climbing Devils Tongue, then retreating a bit and dropping left beneath the cliffs of DT to Silver Lake. Our route from the lake was fairly intuitive. Go up to the notch, then the path of least resistance, a rightward slant up that west face. Three pitches, the first two easy 5, then a final class 4 pitch.
The Toothpick skewers Silver Lake like a cocktail sausage in this winter aerial photo link by John Scurlock.
W by NW Mox '
to left of NW Mox
July 28, 1981
Party: John Roper and Silas Wild
The Sacrum '
Just left of Russ, with the rest of Backbone Ridge from The Coccyx. Eldorado on skyline center.
August 15, 1981
Party: John Roper, Russ Kroeker, and Silas Wild
Pancake Pinnacle'
above Pergatory Pond, lower right
August 15, 1981
Party: John Roper, Silas Wild, and Russ Kroeker
Hoot Owl' South Peak
the prominent right pinnacle. N Hoot Owl is far right.
Black Peak and its NE ridge on right, Black Stacks is the rounded summit in center.
August 23, 1981
JR Solo
Hoot Owl' North Peak
to left of Black Stacks'
August 23, 1981
Solo
Derci Spire'
left of Arriva in center. Fisher Peak on right.
September 14, 1981
Party: John Roper and Mark Allaback
Obsession Spire'
September 14, 1981
Party: John Roper and Mark Allaback
Natal Peak'
September 15, 1981
Party: John Roper and Mark Allaback (on his 20th birthday)
Zebra Spire'
the sharp central spire above Wyeth Glacier
September 17, 1981
Party: John Roper and Mark Allaback
V Peak' 7880+
V-notched peak on left. Golden Peak' on right. Zebra Spire' is the sharp spike on left.
September 17, 1981
Party: John Roper andMark Allaback
Historic update to follow
Ezekiel Peak' 7521'
This is the 401' prominence east peak on Elija Ridge.
October 25, 1981
Solo